BABY DOLL STROLLER DIY.

Supplies

wooden boards that are 3/4″ thick and 1.5″ wide (see diagram for the lengths of board needed)
small caster wheel set with 2 that swivel and 2 that are fixed (either these or these)
paint
fabric for sling part of stroller and straight pins (I used this print in the canvas option)
sewing machine
3/4″ dowel rod (see diagram for the lengths of rod needed)
drill
hole saw bits in 3/4″ size (or you can buy a kit with multiple sizes)
wood glue
chop saw or jig saw or hand saw
protractor to find 45° angle if not using a chop saw
2″ wide wooden circles (you’ll need 4 stacks that are about 3/4″ thick, I used 4 per stack and glued them together)
glue
1 1/4″ screws and 1/2″ screws

Instruction

First, you’ll want to cut the 45° angles on your 4 main stroller boards. You can use the guides on your chop saw for this or use a protractor to trace the angle and then use your jig saw or hand saw to follow the line. Then, measure up from the longest part of the angled top to the appropriate length (see the diagram above) and cut a straight line at the top so you have two long boards and two shorter boards that look like the above.

Once you’ve cut your boards and dowel rods, it’s time to drill the holes! Use your drill and hole saw bit to drill 3/4″ holes into the locations specified in the diagram. Try and center the holes as best you can and drill as straight down as possible to avoid the holes from being crooked, and therefore your rods may sit in the frame crooked as well. Once your pieces look like the above photo, it’s time to paint your pieces and move on to the fabric part while they dry!

For the fabric part of your stroller you’ll want to fold over your fabric so it’s double thick (with the printed sides facing each other) and cut a rectangle that is 9″ x 23″. Sew all the way around the edge with a 1/2″ seam allowance and leave a 4″ gap so you can turn your fabric right side out.

Turn your fabric right side out through the hole (you can clip the edges off your corners before turning so they aren’t as bulky once they are turned) and press your seams flat.

Sew all the way around your fabric rectangle with a 1/4″ seam allowance. This will help your fabric lay flat and will also close up the 4″ gap you turned your fabric through a few steps ago.

Fold the top and bottom edge under and sew a channel opening that’s big enough to get one of your 1/2″ rods through as in the photo above.

For the shorter outer part of the frame, repeat the glueing and tapping process with the 11.5 dowel and the 12″ long sides and give the glue a few minutes to set.

Since the swivel caster wheels have a larger hardware base than the wooden frame, I had to add something to the bottom that was wide enough to mount the wheels onto, and tall enough to use a 1/2″ screw to attach the wheels. I ended up stacking and gluing some 2″ wide circle discs to make a 3/4″ tall cylinder, painting them, and attached those to the bottom of each leg with a 1 1/4″ screw. Once they were all on, I could use my 1/2″ screws to attach each wheel to the bases. Remember, swivel wheels go in the front, and fixed wheels go in the back, like a shopping cart. Once the wheels are on, well, you’re ready to play!

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